Shoe hats, lobster dresses, and spiraling goggle glasses could easily be part of a closet inventory belonging to Lady Gaga.
But these objects were all spawned from the mind of another woman, who was born — incredibly — in 1890: the avant-garde Elsa Schiaparelli.
The house of the influential fashion designer, and hated rival of Coco Chanel, is being revived this fall, in one of the most highly anticipated fashion events of 2012 in Paris. There's been a flurry of activity this year, including actress Farida Khelfa being named as house ambassador.
If Schiaparelli is no longer a household name — her business folded in 1954, and she died in 1973 — her design firsts have certainly lived on: newspaper prints, exposed zippers, perfume bottles in the female form, shocking pink, and — arguably — the first woman's power suit.
"The house Schiaparelli is really the DNA of fashion," says Khelfa. "When you see the world of fashion across the century, you can see all the people she has inspired —all the great couturiers of the last century and this one."
The new house will, of course, inherit all the iconic house codes, but — lacking an artistic director and any clothes dating past 1954 — it surely must be one of the most curious fashion relaunches in recent times.
"It feels like the right moment... and things are moving quickly," said Khelfa who added they've finally found a key piece of the puzzle in reacquiring the original showroom on the 21 Place Vendome, which will set the tone for the clothes production, expected next summer.
"It's really something to be in the very place of creation. We can imagine the boutique downstairs, with all the window displays made by (artist Salvador) Dali. ... In her day, there were three great women at Place Vendome: Schiaparelli, Madame Chanel and Madame Gres. Now we're back."
Inside the revamped showroom, Schiaparelli bigwigs have painstakingly recreated her surrealist universe. Original artifacts that artists designed for the Schiaparelli boutique are proudly on display. Across five salons, glittering gold columns by Alberto Giacometti, a powder compact in the shape of a telephone dial by Dali, a wacky colored carpet by Fernand Leger, spiraling metal glasses created by Man Ray.
Also featured is a "cabinet of curiosity" which featured the perfume Shocking — a reminder of why the Schiaparelli name became world renowned. A one-foot (30-centimeter) curved fuchsia perfume bottle stands provocatively in the shape of the bust of Hollywood sex symbol Mae West — a design echoed by designers such as Jean Paul Gaultier. "Shocking" was an adjective on high rotation in the Schiaparelli vocabulary. She invented a bright fuchsia hue — the now world famous "shocking pink" — that she chose as the house's signature color.
In 1948, according to company lore, a survey of Americans put Elsa Schiaparelli at the top of their list of most famous French people. But they still couldn't pronounce her name: the "Sch" is hard, as in "school."
A much-publicized exhibit at New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art in May, featuring Schiaparelli's dresses alongside modern Prada ones, introduced her melodic name to whole a new generation, but showed how avant-garde her designs remain.
People "had trouble seeing which was the dress from 1927 and which was from 2012," says Khelfa. "Often the 1927 ones looked more current! That's true avant-garde."
Paris-based fashion writer Rebecca Voight sees the launch as hugely promising. "She still has such an incredibly vibrant image and what a name. The people behind the launch are really in the know, so there's really no reason they'll get it wrong. The question is who will (the designer) be?"
The identity of the artistic director remains the biggest question mark.
The pressure for the launch to succeed may perhaps explain why there's still been no formal announcement, although it was scheduled for September.
Khelfa and Schiaparelli CEO Camilla Schiavone dismissed rumors that John Galliano might be in the running, but they both refused to reveal a short-list.
Schiavone tried to explain away the secrecy.
"The house was rebought in 2006. Now, we have the property. We've waited so long to get it right. We're not interested in running after someone. But you will know in the next three weeks or so. The first, what I call, ready-to-couture collection will probably be June 2013."
Ready-to-couture is a concept Schiavone hopes will keep the classy profile of the Schiaparelli name. Garments won't be available in boutiques but will be made-to-measure for select clients who are invited to the 21 Place Vendome for fittings. Though the house says the aim is to produce highly wearable clothes, the first collection will be shown during the Paris Haute Couture week — fittingly, alongside historic rival Chanel.
In their heyday, Coco Chanel dismissed Schiaparelli as "that Italian artist who makes clothes." Schiaparelli responded, equally cattily, calling Chanel "that milliner."
Fashion rivalries are in vogue at the moment. A highlight of this year's fashion calendar involves the media pitting the two new designers at Yves Saint Laurent and Christian Dior against each other.
So after 60 years does the Schiaparelli revival signal there'll once again be handbags at dawn on the Place Vendome?
Friday, October 19, 2012
Tuesday, October 16, 2012
GSEA Fashion Group Now Operating Its Own Apparel Manufacturing Plant in Lima, Peru
Young entrepreneur Anthony Rosa is building a fashion empire on the tip of a Peruvian janitor. Rosa, the president and CEO of Global Sourcing & Enterprise Apparel (GSEA) Fashion Group, LLC, had spent six years in China learning the apparel manufacturing industry inside and out, and by 2007 he was ready to start his own factory. A chance conversation with an office custodian from Peru led Rosa, a native of Perth Amboy, NJ and of Puerto Rican descent, to that country, where he proceeded to build his factory brick by brick.
This video chronicles the journey of GSEA Fashion Group and the road traveled to formally start a company 3000 miles away in Lima, Peru. Acquiring credentials, purchasing property, building an apparel manufacturing plant and developing a team of employees to share in the core values of the company through faith, hard work and commitment to the vision.
Today, GSEA Fashion Group is producing branded apparel for fashion labels around the globe. In Lima, Rosa found the ideal combination of affordable land, proximity to the U.S., low manufacturing costs, and a perennial supply of premium pima cotton. On-trend T-shirts, novelty tops, hoodies, tank tops and dresses are just a few of the fashion bestsellers rolling out of Peru to meet global demand. The GSEA Peru factory handles orders that come in through the GSEA Fashion Group office in New York's fashion district, which also houses three of GSEA's proprietary brands: got G.A.M.E.?, Project Threads and the most recently launched Glossy Chick.
As GSEA Fashion Group navigates through the next phase of its development in Peru, the entire GSEA enterprise continues to define itself. Rosa credits his company's success to GSEA Fashion Group's close-knit and talented team, which embodies one of the company's core values, "Build a Positive Team and Family Spirit," and includes experts in global branding, logistics, fashion merchandising, retailing and graphic design.
Rosa may have taken the long way to success in the fiercely competitive fashion industry, but in never giving up on his aspirations, the University of Miami graduate has managed to carve out a niche for GSEA Fashion Group: producing factory-direct, high-quality knit garments with Peru's finest Pima Cotton. "We are committed to the growth of our factory in Peru and expanding our operation here in NY. Our attention now turns to seeking the right partner to help infuse the growth capital required to allow for that type of expansion and increase our production capacity," Rosa explained.
This video chronicles the journey of GSEA Fashion Group and the road traveled to formally start a company 3000 miles away in Lima, Peru. Acquiring credentials, purchasing property, building an apparel manufacturing plant and developing a team of employees to share in the core values of the company through faith, hard work and commitment to the vision.
Today, GSEA Fashion Group is producing branded apparel for fashion labels around the globe. In Lima, Rosa found the ideal combination of affordable land, proximity to the U.S., low manufacturing costs, and a perennial supply of premium pima cotton. On-trend T-shirts, novelty tops, hoodies, tank tops and dresses are just a few of the fashion bestsellers rolling out of Peru to meet global demand. The GSEA Peru factory handles orders that come in through the GSEA Fashion Group office in New York's fashion district, which also houses three of GSEA's proprietary brands: got G.A.M.E.?, Project Threads and the most recently launched Glossy Chick.
As GSEA Fashion Group navigates through the next phase of its development in Peru, the entire GSEA enterprise continues to define itself. Rosa credits his company's success to GSEA Fashion Group's close-knit and talented team, which embodies one of the company's core values, "Build a Positive Team and Family Spirit," and includes experts in global branding, logistics, fashion merchandising, retailing and graphic design.
Rosa may have taken the long way to success in the fiercely competitive fashion industry, but in never giving up on his aspirations, the University of Miami graduate has managed to carve out a niche for GSEA Fashion Group: producing factory-direct, high-quality knit garments with Peru's finest Pima Cotton. "We are committed to the growth of our factory in Peru and expanding our operation here in NY. Our attention now turns to seeking the right partner to help infuse the growth capital required to allow for that type of expansion and increase our production capacity," Rosa explained.
Friday, October 12, 2012
Luxury Fashion Brands Want Nothing To Do With Amazon
Amazon has entered the fashion world with some fanfare, hiring an expert to set up an online store with swanky brands like Kate Spade and Rebecca Minkoff.
But the big luxury heavyweights want nothing to do with Amazon, according to an article by Barney Jopson at the Financial Times.
While the website is one of the most powerful retailers in the world, many of the luxury fashion brands Jopson interviewed were hesitant to get involved with the brand.
Menswear giant Hugo Boss told the FT that any of its products sold on Amazon aren't sanctioned by them and they're looking for ways to control where their brand is sold.
Alexander McQueen's CEO wouldn't rule out future involvement with Amazon, but barbed to the FT that the brand is " increasingly aware of the importance of brand identity online and maintaining it at the highest levels."
But perhaps the worst zinger came from Louis Vuitton.
"Amazon will never sell Louis Vuitton, because we are the only ones that sell it," said Louis Vuitton chief executive Yves Carvelle. "This is a model of direct control thay we pioneered, and I think long term it is the direction that most luxury ecommerce will take."
Amazon has made a name for itself as a place to find bargains, and that doesn't jive with luxury fashion. Still, these fashion houses can't ignore the exposure that a partnership with Amazon would bring them.
Thursday, October 11, 2012
Jovani Was Combining High Fashion with Big Fun Before it Was Cool
Jovani has made a name for itself by crafting styles that combine girlish glee with elegant haute fashion.
In Milan, there was an unambiguous mandate from a large number of designers: 2013 will be a year of fun fashions for the young girl in us all. Armani's sheer dresses in pastel colors at Milan's fashion week were just one example of the turn toward fun, whimsical designs in party dresses, and all other areas of fashion. Other designers used a mix of Japanese influences and returns to 1950s and 1960s elements to convey the message with couture dresses, but it was clear everywhere: fun is in.
The good news is, with Jovani, you won't have anything to worry about, because fun is already their specialty, and judging from the latest collection, there's plenty of fun still to come. That's very good news indeed, because with more and more young women turning to second hand stores for their prom dresses, being ahead of the curve doesn't just mean looking great. It also means saving money.
Take Jersey Ruffle Dress, style 781 as an example (in the homecoming dresses section on the Jovani website). Here's a dress that makes the wearer look ready for a night out on the town, or a night at the school dance, of course, but it also emphasizes youth and frivolity in a refreshing way. The ruffle skirt is the first thing anyone will notice because the curves of the fabric will dance at the slightest movement. However, the single shoulder strap with colorful embellishments is a tiny touch that adds more than a dash of youthful exuberance to this exciting dress.
In Milan, there was an unambiguous mandate from a large number of designers: 2013 will be a year of fun fashions for the young girl in us all. Armani's sheer dresses in pastel colors at Milan's fashion week were just one example of the turn toward fun, whimsical designs in party dresses, and all other areas of fashion. Other designers used a mix of Japanese influences and returns to 1950s and 1960s elements to convey the message with couture dresses, but it was clear everywhere: fun is in.
The good news is, with Jovani, you won't have anything to worry about, because fun is already their specialty, and judging from the latest collection, there's plenty of fun still to come. That's very good news indeed, because with more and more young women turning to second hand stores for their prom dresses, being ahead of the curve doesn't just mean looking great. It also means saving money.
Take Jersey Ruffle Dress, style 781 as an example (in the homecoming dresses section on the Jovani website). Here's a dress that makes the wearer look ready for a night out on the town, or a night at the school dance, of course, but it also emphasizes youth and frivolity in a refreshing way. The ruffle skirt is the first thing anyone will notice because the curves of the fabric will dance at the slightest movement. However, the single shoulder strap with colorful embellishments is a tiny touch that adds more than a dash of youthful exuberance to this exciting dress.
Saturday, October 6, 2012
Is Fashion Having A Fifty Shades Of Grey Moment
With the spring 2013 collection shows over, it is now safe to make the observation that fashion, whether it cares to admit it or not, has been influenced by the best-selling book Fifty Shades Of Grey. How else would you explain the countless looks from New York, London, Milan and Paris showing models in various states of dishabille? Undressed is the new dressed up. Skin baring is the hottest trend.
This was the big statement at Jason Wu where the designer played with the idea of leather and sheer or in fashion parlance hard and soft. He showed lingerie-inspired looks spliced with leather and ensembles with sheer panels in a mostly black palette. A couple of days before, BCBG Max Azria showed soft dresses worn under leather harnesses. And Francisco Costa ended New York Fashion Week with clothes that had exposed conical bras.
The Fifty Shades Of Grey influence also made its presence in London and Milan. More so in Milan where Dolce & Gabbana showed sheer lacy numbers and retro-style undergarments and swimsuits. The sexual charge was also seen at Roberto Cavalli with his cutout numbers, and at Bottega Veneta and Prada where some of the clothes borrowed elements from lingerie.
In Paris, Alber Elbaz showed strong sensuality with dark clothes that emphasized a woman’s curves. Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen created corset type tops in honeycomb patterns. The usually romantic Giambattista Valli added sheer components that revealed luxe boy shorts. And Miu Miu ended the spring 2013 season with more of the same lingerie as outerwear theme. Bra tops exposing midriffs were paired with blue denim skirts lined with satin.
If Fifty Shades Of Grey is a little too low-brow a cultural reference, think of the trend as a nod to the femme fatales in Helmut Newton’s photographs. Strong, sexy and even dominating. But however you attribute fashion’s new erotic mood, one thing’s for certain, many will be baring skin come spring 2013, much like the photographs in the slideshow.
This was the big statement at Jason Wu where the designer played with the idea of leather and sheer or in fashion parlance hard and soft. He showed lingerie-inspired looks spliced with leather and ensembles with sheer panels in a mostly black palette. A couple of days before, BCBG Max Azria showed soft dresses worn under leather harnesses. And Francisco Costa ended New York Fashion Week with clothes that had exposed conical bras.
The Fifty Shades Of Grey influence also made its presence in London and Milan. More so in Milan where Dolce & Gabbana showed sheer lacy numbers and retro-style undergarments and swimsuits. The sexual charge was also seen at Roberto Cavalli with his cutout numbers, and at Bottega Veneta and Prada where some of the clothes borrowed elements from lingerie.
In Paris, Alber Elbaz showed strong sensuality with dark clothes that emphasized a woman’s curves. Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen created corset type tops in honeycomb patterns. The usually romantic Giambattista Valli added sheer components that revealed luxe boy shorts. And Miu Miu ended the spring 2013 season with more of the same lingerie as outerwear theme. Bra tops exposing midriffs were paired with blue denim skirts lined with satin.
If Fifty Shades Of Grey is a little too low-brow a cultural reference, think of the trend as a nod to the femme fatales in Helmut Newton’s photographs. Strong, sexy and even dominating. But however you attribute fashion’s new erotic mood, one thing’s for certain, many will be baring skin come spring 2013, much like the photographs in the slideshow.
Friday, September 28, 2012
Fashion Week Foodies: Team Grazia's Food Diary
There’s a myth when it comes to fashion week that fashion editors don’t eat. As anyone following the GraziaFashionEd Instagram will know, at this mag, it certainly isn’t the case. However, we will confess to having some extremely strange food diaries when it comes to show time – mostly out of necessity but sometimes out of pure greed (you try turning down a plate of macaroons!)
What’s more every fashion week is different. In New York it’s all about room service because the manic workload created by the time difference means you spend more time locked in your suite bashing out copy than wining and dining. For us it was all about a menu of cheeseburgers (…when in Rome), club sandwiches and Karlie Kloss’ cookies (a FROW treat at DKNY).
London’s crazy back-to-back skedge compounded with traffic jams and heaving seating arrangements always leads to famish to feast situations – three Bourbon biscuits till four then a banquet of hot dogs for a major carb-rush. While we certainly do not advocate the nutritional value of said diet, we will say it makes you particularly adept at snagging canapés. Our top rules for cashing in on the free food include: a) Seize your moment: see a waiter, stalk, then clean the black slate plate - this is no time for courtesy, b) Always take a napkin – ideal for storing morsels for when you’re on the go, and c) Avoid seafood. No particular reason, aside from the fact the runways won’t wait for your Immodium moment to pass. Enough said.
If all this seems a bit piecemeal, you’ll be pleased to hear that Milan Fashion Week is much more plentiful in the food stakes. The home of pasta, pizza and pastries galore, we were well-watered and fed at all times. Favourites included lobster taglietelle, aubergine Parmigiana, tuna tartare, and beef carpaccio, all washed down with a good serving of Prosecco. Sure we never found time for the Italian Full-Monty of pasta, meat, fish and pudding, but we definitely got on the Eat, Prey, Love foodie-train. Talk about bellissima.
Next up is Paris, which from previous experience offers paltry portions at dinner and few chances to grab anything more than a Paul Croque Monsieur for the rest of the day. So a month of really weird, anti-G.I eating – as much as we love fashion week, we have to admit we cant wait to get home to a hearty portion of bangers & mash. Alternatively, if anyone fancies an Italian city break, we’re definitely game!
What’s more every fashion week is different. In New York it’s all about room service because the manic workload created by the time difference means you spend more time locked in your suite bashing out copy than wining and dining. For us it was all about a menu of cheeseburgers (…when in Rome), club sandwiches and Karlie Kloss’ cookies (a FROW treat at DKNY).
London’s crazy back-to-back skedge compounded with traffic jams and heaving seating arrangements always leads to famish to feast situations – three Bourbon biscuits till four then a banquet of hot dogs for a major carb-rush. While we certainly do not advocate the nutritional value of said diet, we will say it makes you particularly adept at snagging canapés. Our top rules for cashing in on the free food include: a) Seize your moment: see a waiter, stalk, then clean the black slate plate - this is no time for courtesy, b) Always take a napkin – ideal for storing morsels for when you’re on the go, and c) Avoid seafood. No particular reason, aside from the fact the runways won’t wait for your Immodium moment to pass. Enough said.
If all this seems a bit piecemeal, you’ll be pleased to hear that Milan Fashion Week is much more plentiful in the food stakes. The home of pasta, pizza and pastries galore, we were well-watered and fed at all times. Favourites included lobster taglietelle, aubergine Parmigiana, tuna tartare, and beef carpaccio, all washed down with a good serving of Prosecco. Sure we never found time for the Italian Full-Monty of pasta, meat, fish and pudding, but we definitely got on the Eat, Prey, Love foodie-train. Talk about bellissima.
Next up is Paris, which from previous experience offers paltry portions at dinner and few chances to grab anything more than a Paul Croque Monsieur for the rest of the day. So a month of really weird, anti-G.I eating – as much as we love fashion week, we have to admit we cant wait to get home to a hearty portion of bangers & mash. Alternatively, if anyone fancies an Italian city break, we’re definitely game!
Tuesday, September 18, 2012
Global Ventilation Systems and Accessories Market 2011-2015
TechNavio's analysts forecast the Global Ventilation Systems and Accessories market to grow at a CAGR of 7.97 percent over the period 2011-2015. One of the key factors contributing to this market growth is the increased applications of ventilators for multiple purposes. The Global Ventilation Systems and Accessories market has also been witnessing the increase in sales of portable ventilators. However, the gradual shift toward a Replacement market could pose a challenge to the growth of this market.
TechNavio's report, the Global Ventilation Systems and Accessories Market 2011-2015, has been prepared based on an in-depth analysis of the market with inputs from industry experts. The report covers the Americas, and the EMEA and APAC regions; it also covers the Global Ventilation Systems and Accessories market landscape and its growth prospects in the coming years. The report also includes a discussion of the key vendors operating in this market.
Key vendors dominating this market space include CareFusion Corp., Covidien plc, Draegerwerk AG and Co. KGaA, Maquet Gmbh and Co. KG, and Philips Healthcare.
Other vendors mentioned in the report: GE Healthcare Ltd., Siemens Healthcare, ResMed Inc., Fisher & Paykel Healthcare Corp. Ltd., Hamilton Medical AG, Invacare Corp., CAS Medical Systems Inc., Nihon Kohden Corp., Nonin Medical Inc., Criticare Systems Inc., Spacelabs Healthcare Inc., Nellcor Puritan Bennett LLC, ALARIS Medical Systems Inc., Criticare Systems Inc., Masimo Corp., and Welch Allyn Inc.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)